{"id":11640,"date":"2022-07-09T20:55:10","date_gmt":"2022-07-09T20:55:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/appsaf.apieproject.com\/news\/?p=11640"},"modified":"2022-07-09T20:55:11","modified_gmt":"2022-07-09T20:55:11","slug":"african-jewellery-designers-bask-in-london-va-limelight","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/appsaf.apieproject.com\/news\/2022\/07\/09\/african-jewellery-designers-bask-in-london-va-limelight\/","title":{"rendered":"African jewellery designers bask in London V&amp;A limelight"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Please use the sharing tools found via the share button at the top or side of articles. Copying articles to share with others is a breach of FT.com T&amp;Cs and Copyright Policy. Email <span \n                data-original-string=\"kquD\/mlg1cNMvHwdAoBGjw==f1amrwB7pThD7qbwN4aoResSKknay\/TSBMc4Wa9jfG20mk=\"\n                class=\"apbct-email-encoder\"\n                title=\"This contact has been encoded by Anti-Spam by CleanTalk. Click to decode. To finish the decoding make sure that JavaScript is enabled in your browser.\">li<span class=\"apbct-blur\">*******@ft.c<\/span>om<\/span> to buy additional rights. Subscribers may share up to 10 or 20 articles per month using the gift article service. More information can be found at https:\/\/www.ft.com\/tour.<br \/>\nhttps:\/\/www.ft.com\/content\/8cdf16ff-3b38-4f39-9410-23cc79414c0a<\/p>\n<p>The show opened in London last week and continues until April next year. Checinska, the lead curator, said the jewellers\u2019 work was so strong it \u201cchallenges the expectation of what jewellery is\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>African work has been the centre of attention this year, helped by exposure on television and in music videos.<\/p>\n<p>Ana Srdic, who lives in South Africa, had her gobstopper rings featured in the Sex and the City TV sequel when actress Nicole Ari Parker added much-needed diversity to the series.<\/p>\n<p>Before that, singer Beyonc\u00e9 wore a statement brass chain by Ad\u00e8le Dejak for her My Power video.<\/p>\n<p>Please use the sharing tools found via the share button at the top or side of articles. Copying articles to share with others is a breach of FT.com T&amp;Cs and Copyright Policy. Email <span \n                data-original-string=\"xGIkoVSmVokUhWLPR1a5hw==f1aSfAI6IlT4K7WCfvJMnjgRBYz2oe4E9AJHZToMZdOUa4=\"\n                class=\"apbct-email-encoder\"\n                title=\"This contact has been encoded by Anti-Spam by CleanTalk. Click to decode. To finish the decoding make sure that JavaScript is enabled in your browser.\">li<span class=\"apbct-blur\">*******@ft.c<\/span>om<\/span> to buy additional rights. Subscribers may share up to 10 or 20 articles per month using the gift article service. More information can be found at https:\/\/www.ft.com\/tour.<br \/>\nhttps:\/\/www.ft.com\/content\/8cdf16ff-3b38-4f39-9410-23cc79414c0a<\/p>\n<p>The V&amp;A\u2019s Africa Fashion also has works by Ami Doshi Shah (pictured top), of Kenya, including her necklace of brass, sisal and salt. And K\u2019tsobe, a Rwandan designer, has created a copper, silver and brass necklace that blends her culture with mokume gane, a Japanese metalwork.<\/p>\n<p>Longstanding sustainable practices by Africa\u2019s designers are now at the forefront of the international industry, too \u2014 so \u201cthe great thing is that they can sell on that basis also\u201d, says Hanneli Rupert, founder of Merchants on Long, a Cape Town boutique.<\/p>\n<p>Jennifer Mulli, of the Kamba tribe, founded Jiamini, the fashion and accessories label, in Nairobi \u201cto sustain our [Maasai and beadwork] heritage\u201d. As Mulli has said: \u201cI took the women from the informal settlements who are not Maasai but [Kamba, Kikuyu and Luhya], just to make them believe it doesn\u2019t matter where you come from, you can do what any woman can do.\u201d The work gave the women a livelihood.<\/p>\n<p>Please use the sharing tools found via the share button at the top or side of articles. Copying articles to share with others is a breach of FT.com T&amp;Cs and Copyright Policy. Email <span \n                data-original-string=\"VkhXyaD+OOfVfz\/3Rtmcng==f1a4KI\/pTUwvUk7dNKd2Xyr4mVG8mOSHNuxVYodKEHws1U=\"\n                class=\"apbct-email-encoder\"\n                title=\"This contact has been encoded by Anti-Spam by CleanTalk. Click to decode. To finish the decoding make sure that JavaScript is enabled in your browser.\">li<span class=\"apbct-blur\">*******@ft.c<\/span>om<\/span> to buy additional rights. Subscribers may share up to 10 or 20 articles per month using the gift article service. More information can be found at https:\/\/www.ft.com\/tour.<br \/>\nhttps:\/\/www.ft.com\/content\/8cdf16ff-3b38-4f39-9410-23cc79414c0a<\/p>\n<p>Doshi Shah began her business in 2014 and uses local materials including recycled brass and stone offcuts, as that avoids import duties which \u201ccan be 25 per cent up to even 100 per cent of the value of the items themselves\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>This stone includes the green zoisite with black veining that she used in her signature torque necklace. It \u201cis cast out like garbage\u201d from the country\u2019s ruby mines, Doshi Shah says, but it is \u201ca really beautiful stone\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>In 2018, Theresa May, then UK prime minister, wore one of Doshi Shah\u2019s torques for a state dinner in Kenya.<\/p>\n<p>But expanding out of the local market is tough. With no free trade across the continent, export duties are high. Katherine-Mary Pichulik, co-chief executive of her eponymous brand, has dual pricing in her Johannesburg business \u201cso there is enough margin for [retailers outside South Africa] to import the product, pay taxes and pay shipping\u201d, she says.<\/p>\n<p>Her Fiamma earrings, made of copper discs hand-wrapped in blue rope, are priced at R1,350 ($85) in South Africa but cost $135 elsewhere.<\/p>\n<p>Many designers are turning to collaboration to expand outside their area. For Mulli of Jiamini, her current debut collection with Dylanlex of Los Angeles has taught her \u201chow I can blend beadwork with metals\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Please use the sharing tools found via the share button at the top or side of articles. Copying articles to share with others is a breach of FT.com T&amp;Cs and Copyright Policy. Email <span \n                data-original-string=\"vPYtm5SLutyvZubb3vRiiA==f1aBSu5+i+u9eIvkH7yRh22\/0cEbWQzUBUGOfM\/S1c3\/MM=\"\n                class=\"apbct-email-encoder\"\n                title=\"This contact has been encoded by Anti-Spam by CleanTalk. Click to decode. To finish the decoding make sure that JavaScript is enabled in your browser.\">li<span class=\"apbct-blur\">*******@ft.c<\/span>om<\/span> to buy additional rights. Subscribers may share up to 10 or 20 articles per month using the gift article service. More information can be found at https:\/\/www.ft.com\/tour.<br \/>\nhttps:\/\/www.ft.com\/content\/8cdf16ff-3b38-4f39-9410-23cc79414c0a<\/p>\n<p>As Africa\u2019s designers enjoy their new international profile, jewellers have felt a ripple effect. Thanks to this luxury positioning, \u201cnow we get buyers online who buy \u2014 and without caring about the price of the piece\u201d, says Mulli.<\/p>\n<p>However, while designers have had more visibility since the Black Lives Matter protests boosted diversity, Dejak believes that sales have stayed the same.<\/p>\n<p>Akebehi Kpolo has at least observed greater customer interest in the culture of the Akan ethnic group, which is the inspiration behind her contemporary pieces.<\/p>\n<p>This \u201cgave me confidence to continue what I was doing\u201d, says the Ivory Coast designer. \u201cMaybe I need to go deeper and that\u2019s why I\u2019m looking at making objects [such as tableware], not only jewellery.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Kenya and South Africa are the jewellery hubs for homegrown talent, says Pichulik: South Africa \u201cmainly because of access to certain types of stones and maybe finer stones [such as diamonds]\u201d, while Kenya\u2019s importance is based on its heritage of Maasai beading and brasswork.<\/p>\n<p>But setting up a jewellery business outside these countries can be harder, says Kpolo (the K is silent).<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI am between two markets and I don\u2019t have the infrastructure I need. If I want to keep the standard of the brand [like using silver or gold vermeil] I need to move the collection to Nairobi.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Africa\u2019s jewellers are, nevertheless, ambitious. Kpolo plans to open a factory in Ivory Coast, either in Grand-Bassam or Bingerville near Abidjan, within two years.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe factory will not be used only for me but also for others,\u201d she says. \u201cThere are many big spaces so I can afford a place there.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Kpolo has a silent donor but is also looking for funding from her country\u2019s ministry of culture and local investors.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>As Christine Checinska put together Africa Fashion, the latest exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum, it became clear that jewellery designers should have a section of their own.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":12963,"featured_media":11637,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[35,36],"tags":[7,37,38],"class_list":{"0":"post-11640","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-fashion","8":"category-lifestyle","9":"tag-apie-project","10":"tag-fashion","11":"tag-lifestyle"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v24.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>African jewellery designers bask in London V&amp;A limelight - APIE NEWS<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/appsaf.apieproject.com\/news\/2022\/07\/09\/african-jewellery-designers-bask-in-london-va-limelight\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" 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