Zoom out. What’s the story at the Zeitz MOCAA?
The Zeitz MOCAA is one of the most important new museums in the global art world: It’s the first-ever major institution dedicated exclusively to artists from across the African continent and diaspora. It’s also a must-see for architecture buffs; the building, a reimagining of an abandoned grain silo in a prime stretch of the popular V&A Waterfront district, was designed by UK starchitect Thomas Heatherwick. The result is a soaring, sculptural marvel that really is a work of art in itself. It’s modern and industrial, and Capetonians are rightly proud of the new landmark building that’s caught the attention of art insiders around the world.
Start off with the big picture. What will we find in the permanent collection?
Zeitz MOCAA houses part of the extensive collection of German businessman and philanthropist Jochen Zeitz, as well as many pieces commissioned exclusively for the museum. You’ll find artists from across the continent well-represented here: Frances Goodman, Mary Sibande, and Athi-Patra Ruga from South Africa; Cyrus Kabiru from Kenya; Ghada Amer from Egypt; Julien Sinzogan from Benin, Kudzanai Chiurai from Zimbabwe; Nandipha Mntambo from Swaziland; Njideka Akunyili Crosby from Nigeria; and many more. There are also African American artists like Frohawk Two Feathers and Kehinde Wiley represented—you may recall the latter as the artist who was commissioned to do Barack Obama’s presidential portrait. It’s a phenomenal collection that spans painting to sculpture to photography to mixed media, and it’s a must for art enthusiasts as well as anyone curious about the range of cutting-edge works being produced on the continent and in the diaspora today.
Okay, now zooming in a little. Are there any temporary installations or exhibitions of note?
The gallery rooms themselves are a bit boxy and can feel congested at times, but the collection is well curated and beautifully displayed. The main entry atrium, with massive cutouts etched from the giant cement cylinders of the original silo space, also doubles as an exhibition area: South African artist Nicholas Hlobo’s hanging installation of a mythological flying dragon, previously at the Venice Biennale, was suspended in the atrium at the opening. And there’s a lot more photography than we expected.
Who will you find perusing the art?
Since it opened in September 2017, many of the visitors so far have been South Africans curious and intrigued about the new space. There are also plenty of tourists who’ve already added it to their itineraries.
How can one navigate the museum?
The galleries wrap around the atrium for several floors, making it easy to walk the space in a circular flow. There are spiral stairways connecting the floors, but the glass elevators built into the silo cylinders are a fun way to navigate the building while taking in a view of the dramatic atrium.
Is a guided tour worthwhile?
The museum is really easy to navigate solo, but a guided tour can bring helpful context and depth of understanding to this realm of art.
It sounds like a lot, and we’ll likely get hungry. What’s the best option for a pit stop?
Zeitz MOCAA Food, located on the sixth floor, has become something of a destination. It has stunning views over Cape Town and artfully plated bistro fare. If you’d rather not eat at the museum, there are plenty of places in and around the Silo Precinct; head to the swank Silo Hotel above the museum for a drink at the Willaston Bar, or next door to Si Cantina Sociale for Latin cuisine.
If we’re a bit short on time, what’s the best way to strategize a visit?
Even if you just pop in to drop your jaw at that stunning atrium, then scrape it off the floor long enough to bolt in and out of a few galleries around the perimeter, you’ll get a sense of the dynamic art scene booming across the continent.
